Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for CR-10
Hotend upgrade for the Creality CR-10
- All metal
- Better heat dissipation
- No adjustments required
- $90.83
All prices excl. VAT. Excludes delivery costs
In stock
Delivery on Wednesday, 11 November: Order before Friday at 13:00.
- All metal
- Better heat dissipation
- No adjustments required
Share:
Product information & technical details
| Item no.: | MS-M2583-04 |
|---|---|
| Manufacturer No.: | M2583-04 |
| Manufacturers: | Micro-Swiss |
| Content: | 1 pc |
| Product types: | Hot-Ends |
|---|---|
| Compatible with 3D Printers : | Creality CR-10, Creality CR-10-S4, Creality CR-10-S5, Creality CR-10S, Creality Ender 3, Creality Ender 2, Creality Ender 3 Pro, Creality Ender 5 |
| Filament Diameter: | 1,75 mm |
Description
The Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Upgrade for the Creality CR-10 can be used without modifications to the 3D printer.
The uniquely designed cooling block eliminates the need for a thermowell, allowing for faster heat conduction.
The heat break is made of titanium and therefore provides excellent thermal insulation between the heating element and cooling block.
Included in the kit:
- Aluminum cooling block
- Heat Break made from titanium
- Aluminum heating block
- Coated MK8 0.4mm nozzle
- Silicone protection
Accessories
Spare parts
Product videos:
Questions & Answers about Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for CR-10
Customer Reviews
| | | 87 | (83%) |
|---|---|---|---|
| | | 8 | (7%) |
| | | 2 | (1%) |
| | | 4 | (3%) |
| | | 3 | (2%) |
104 reviews
19 customer reviews in English
64 customer reviews in all languages
-
Stress Tech
Rated with 3 out of 5 stars.
Not my thing at all! The Micro-Swiss heat sink is made from metal, which has a lower thermal conductivity then the stock Creality aluminium red heat sink. The Micro-Swiss metal heat sink also has less fins to disperse heat than the Creality aluminium red heat sink. It would have been better, if it was made in copper, as copper has the highest thermal conductivity then all alloys except for silver. Then again, copper tarnishes, so maybe aluminium would have still worked better than this metal heat sink IMHO.
A few rolls of abrasive filaments of Glow-In-The-Dark worn out the inside of the heat sink where the Bowden coupler sits. This created a lot of friction on the filament when it came to retractions.
The grub screw that came with my Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit was a black mild steel one, compared to the stainless steel one pictured on their website. The grub screw worn out on the first tight turn, making me cut a slit into the grub screw to remove it with a flat head screw driver.
The titanium heat break was sealed into the aluminium heating block after when I wanted to replace the heating block as I worn out the threads (where the nozzle goes in) when I kept on changing to different size nozzles.
I had 2 clogs... Maybe it is because of the low grade Eryone steampunk filament I used?? either way, I have only had one clog with the Creality stock ender hot end and that's with over 20kg+ of filament used through it. I understand that some 3D print users find it hard to properly install the PTFE Bowden tube on the Creality Ender stock hot end, making them purchase the Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit. Once mastering on how to install the PTFE Bowden tube to the Creality Ender hot end, you will realise that the Creality stock hot end out preforms the Micro-swiss hotend in print quality. This only works well, when you replace the Creality stock cooler fan (high air flow fan) with a high static pressure fan like the Sunon Maglev 24v KDE2404PFVX 40x40x10mm fan or something similar. Sunon Maglev KDE2404PFVX fan, has the highest static pressure on any 40x40x10mm fans to date IMO. Genuine Sunon Maglev KDE2404PFVX fans are now hard to find. With a lot of fakes being sold online. But replacing the Creality stock cooling fan with a high static pressure fan, makes any filament look astonishing. This is because the filament doesn't get baked in the heatsink while it waits to get melted before it reaches the heating block/nozzle. I recommend using a Capricorn XS series premium PTFE Bowden tube as it has a melting point of 300c. On the bottom of this review, I have left some settings I use on Cura using a high static pressure fan with the Capricorn XS PTFE Bowden tube. I also listed the specs for the Sunon Maglev 24v KDE2404PFVX 40x40x10mm fan, so you will be able to compare the figures with other 40x40x10mm (4010) fans. I hope this helps somebody out there.
By the way, I can buy 11 complete Creality hot end kits with heating cartridges and thermistors for a price of one of these Micro-Swiss kits.
This is my 2 pence on this all metal hotend kit. Everyone will have a different opinion, and this one is mine :-)
Cura retraction settings:
Retraction distance: 6.5mm
Retraction speed: 25mm
Retraction retract speed: 30mm
Retraction prime speed: 25mm
Combing Mode: Off
Z-Hop when retracted: On
Z-Hop Height: 0.4mm
WARNING!
!!PLEASE BEWARE OF FAKE SUNON MAGLEV FANS!!
Copies are everywhere...
Finding a genuine Sunon Maglev KDE2404PFVX is like finding a 50+ carat tanzanite diamond now a days. These fans are now rare, as they are discontinued. The fake ones on sale at Ebay are much louder, have less static pressure and have a 3rd solder point (or wire) to connect the fan reading sensor too. The genuine Sunon Maglev KDE2404PFVX only has 2 hidden solder points and 2 wires connecting to them solder points. Them two wires are red and black and feel way more thicker and are not twisted together. The original has a thicker plug/socket too. Also the label on the fakes are very different. You will be able to notice the part number is placed differently to the fakes ones. Original genuine Sunon Maglev KDE2404PFVX fans will cost around £45 a piece, Not £7 from Ebay!
Sunon Maglev KDE2404PFVX full fan specification :
Fan Size: 40mmx40mmx10mm
Rated Voltage: 24 Volts (VDC)
Operating voltage range: 8~27.6 VDC
Rated speed: 8500 RPM
Air delivery flow: 9.5 CFM / Max 11 CFM
Static Pressure: 0.29 inch-H2O or 7.36mm-H2O or 7.3 mmAq
Rated power: 1.9 Watts
Noise level: 39 dB(A) / Max 43 dB(A)
Direction of rotation: Counter-clockwise
Weight: 17gWas this review helpful? (11) (0)
-
Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit
Rated with 5 out of 5 stars.
I purchased this for my cr10s and its been excellent, even the print quality has improved ten fold, Im really happy with my purchase and the fantastic service I received also.
Was this review helpful? (0) (0)
-
Micro-Swiss is it the End ?
Rated with 2 out of 5 stars.
I would really like to say my experience with this was great, but it wasnt... at all.
I cant give any higher a rating because simply put the heater block fused to my heating tube. So bad ended up having to drill it free. I will have to take the blame here and say I over-tightened the hot end screws
I'm left with a mess, and not happy. I'm not blaming the product manufacturer, just thought some of the fitting instructions in retrospect were not really clear... what is 'tight but not too tight' anyway ?Was this review helpful? (7) (0)
Did you know?
The most popular technology used for 3D printing is FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling). A heated nozzle (hot-end) melts the plastic wire, layering the melted parts.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
E3D V6 Silicone Socks
1 set -
-
Capricorn TL Transparent PTFE Bowden
4 Model types -
Creality Hotend Thermistor
16 Model types -
Capricorn XS Ultra Low Friction PTFE Bowden
4 Model types -
3DJAKE PTFE Tube
4 Model types -
-
BROZZL MK8 Brass Nozzle
5 diameters -
Micro-Swiss MK8 Nozzle - Hardened Steel
3 diameters -
Micro-Swiss MK8 Coated Nozzle
5 diameters -
BROZZL MK8 Nozzle - Hardened Steel
4 diameters -
-
3DJAKE Glass Plate with Chemical Coating
5 Model types -
3DJAKE PETG Black
10 Model types -
Creality Heater Cartridge
16 Model types -
-
Recent Articles:
Explore 3DJake:
3DJake Shopping Highlights
-
Free Delivery to United States from $250.00
-
Delivery in 12 - 13 working days.
-
We ship globally to more than 90 countries
-
Secure Payment using SSL Encryption Technology
Due to the absence of a PTFE insert in the hotend there is more resistance with PLA and to a lesser extent PETG, however, it is still possible to print these filaments by simply increasing the temperature by about 5C depending on the filament being used. We would recommend the coated nozzle and silicone sock that comes with it. Hardened steel nozzles are not the best choice when using with PLA.